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Neither are hammers, vises, needle nose pliers or flat rocks. A good crimper, when used, correctly will do a cold weld between the wire and the barrel of the connector. If you were to cut a well executed crimp in half you would see a solid form of wire and connector. You can't achieve a good crimp with the wrong tool/crimper So instead of having a working electrical connection you have a toaster in your instrument panel or someplace else that a toaster shouldn't be. I can only speak for myself...but I do not want unknown, unattended toasters in my boat, RV, car or airplane. You will also have a voltage drop to whatever device that wire is hooked to.
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| This is a CRIMPER!
When working with mil-spec insulated connectors, it is best to use a nesting type dies like the Eclipse 300-058 (shown on lower left). These have a smooth nested style jaws...no points or sharp protrusions to pierce the insulation.
TOP Photo From The Left:Insulation Barrel- Wire Sleeve- Connection Point This is a 12/10ga., 1/4" Mil. Spec. Nylon Ring, #MS-25036-157. The insulation is cut away so you can see the barrel and the sleeve. The sleeve is where the wire enters. The barrel is between the sleeve and the terminal's connection area ( Please note the 12-10 markings...good quality connectors always have their wire gauge stamped on them, plus the manufacturer's name or symbol--if they are proud of what they make! If it's not stamped--don't buy it because you don't know what it's made of.) If you use a single die crimper remember to do the two crimps on a Mil. Spec. connector. If you are using a single crimp tool, do the bare wire crimp first. It is the crimp area nearest the tongue or ring...( the end that connects )
NOTE: Place your connector in the crimper ( this is true for all crimpers ) and apply enough pressure to hold it in place. Insert your wire and squeeze the crimper until it bottoms out. Another advantage to using a racheting crimper is that when you squeeze the handles to the point where they release, you'll know you've completed the crimping cycle-no guesswork!. Let me say that again for emphasis...Pull on your wire after you finish crimping it. It's better to have it come out now and not while your in the air or on the water. The last photo is of a ring connector I split open. This is what they are shaped like before they roll them up and braze the seam. Notice the ridges that run horizontally on the rectangular ar ea. When you crimp this quality connector those ridges are forced into the wire strands...Strain Relief...It's really helpful in high vibration environments.
NOTE: Strip just enough insulation from your wire so that the strands are even with the outer end of the barrel after insertion. Warning! Be very careful not to score the wire when stripping the insulation. It weakens the strands considerably. Strength:Test your crimps with a pull test:
(Source: AMP PIDG Application Specification 114-2157) |
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